科学者たちが波の隠れた信号に耳を澄ます(Scientists tune in to the surf’s hidden signals)

2025-09-02 カリフォルニア大学サンタバーバラ校(UCSB)

カリフォルニア大学サンタバーバラ校(UCSB)の研究チームは、海岸で砕ける波が発する超低周波音(20Hz以下のインフラサウンド)と地震波を解析し、波の発生位置や強度を特定する手法を開発した。研究成果は『Geophysical Journal International』に掲載された。砕波時に生じる気泡の振動が大気中と海底に音響信号を生み出し、これがセンサーで捉えられる。研究ではUCSB沿岸のCoal Oil Point保護区にセンサーアレイを設置し、映像データと同期させて波の衝突音を特定。観測された信号は1~5Hzの繰り返しパルスで、波高との相関も確認された。特に、岩棚付近で多くの波が同時に砕けることで強い信号が集中する現象が明らかになった。従来は単一センサー利用が主流だったが、アレイ観測により発生源の三角測量が可能となり、信号特性の解明が進んだ。今後は、他地域や潮汐・風条件での再現性を検証し、暗所や霧下でも利用可能な沿岸モニタリング手法としての発展が期待される。

科学者たちが波の隠れた信号に耳を澄ます(Scientists tune in to the surf’s hidden signals)
Photo Credit:Elena Zhukova
There’s a cacophony of acoustic signals below the range of human hearing, many quite intense, that you can pick up with the right “ears.”

<関連情報>

砕ける海波からの過渡的地震音響信号の同定:テンプレートマッチングと個別の波打ちイベントの位置特定 Identification of transient seismo-acoustic signals from crashing ocean waves: template matching and location of discrete surf events

Jeremy W Francoeur , Robin S Matoza , Hugo D Ortiz , Rodrigo De Negri
Geophysical Journal International  Published:15 August 2025
DOI:https://doi.org/10.1093/gji/ggaf317

Summary

Crashing ocean waves, or surf, have previously been identified as persistent generators of coherent infrasound signals from 0.5 to 20 Hz. Here, we demonstrate that infrasonic and seismic (seismo-acoustic) signals from surf are composed of repetitive transient events which can be detected and characterized using template matching. Using data collected from a series of field experiments designed to study seismo-acoustic surf signals in Santa Barbara, California, we show that source regions of these events can be constrained primarily to just offshore of a local coastal headland using a reverse-time-migration implementation on a small spatial scale (<5 km2). Our data include one continuously running infrasound sensor (September 2022–July 2023) to examine temporal signal evolution, complemented by several short-duration campaigns involving various infrasound arrays, co-located seismometers, and video recordings. Throughout varied oceanographic and atmospheric conditions, we detect up to tens of thousands of independent surf repeaters per day over the course of a year. The amplitudes of detected infrasound signals are correlated with offshore significant wave height and local wind speed. We identify coincident arrivals of seismic and infrasound signals with similar spectral characteristics, suggesting a linked source mechanism locally producing both the seismic and acoustic transient signals. Source regions estimated from array- and network-based methods correspond to the surf zone as seen in video footage, and the directions of selected transient signals align with the location of a rocky reef shelf nearshore. This work showcases the ability to extract near-real-time information about the coastal sea state from seismic and acoustic signal features.

1702地球物理及び地球化学
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